In Autumn/Winter 2004, Belgian designer Raf Simons presented a collection that felt quiet but deeply emotional. The show is widely known as “Waves.” At first glance the clothes seem simple - knit sweaters, hoodies, slim trousers, and long tailored coats. But the closer you look, the more the collection reveals a story about youth, emotion, and movement.
The central theme of the collection was how emotions move through people, especially when you are young. Feelings are rarely stable — they rise, fall, and change, just like waves in the ocean.
To express this, Simons placed abstract wave graphics and patches on knit sweaters and hoodies. The shapes look like ocean waves or sound wave signals, almost like the visual form of music or emotion.
This connection to music and youth culture has always been important in Simons’ work. The graphics feel like they are broadcasting feelings, turning the clothes into a kind of emotional signal.
The palette of the show stayed very controlled and calm. Simons used mostly:
black, dark navy, grey, white, and a pale ice blue.
The ice blue knit sweaters became some of the most recognizable pieces from the show. The color feels cold and soft, like winter light or frozen water, and it fits perfectly with the wave theme.
Some of the knit sweaters have slightly distorted or oversized shapes. Shoulders drop lower, sleeves feel longer, and the knits sometimes look stretched.
This was intentional. Simons used these silhouettes to express youth and vulnerability - the feeling of being in a stage of life where identity is still forming.
The clothes feel a little imperfect and emotional, which was exactly the point.
The AW2004 “Waves” collection didn’t rely on big spectacle or dramatic styling. Instead, it focused on feeling.
With simple garments, quiet colors, and powerful graphics, Raf Simons created a collection that captured something very real: what it feels like to be young and full of emotions.
And that’s why people still talk about this show today - because the idea behind it is something everyone understands. Just like waves, emotions never stay still.